Sue Perez, is a New York City makeup artist and licensed Esthetician. She has done it all from advertising, to television, to freelance and everything in between. Her work is gorgeous and her advice is even more phenomenal. I’m so glad she agreed to talk with me. Keep reading to have this lovely’s helpful hints in your purse!
GP: How did you get started in Makeup?
Sue: “I didn’t really start at the cosmetic counter. I was enrolled in art school and needed a part time job. When I did makeup I looked at a face and saw a blank canvas and in a way, it just came natural to me.”
GP: Metallic eyeliner is really in right now. Personally, I use it accent a really dark, smokey eye. What are some of the things that you do with golds and silvers?
Sue: “I definitely feel that the trends are always changing. Because we’re in Spring everyone is doing the brights. Looking at the trends, it’s just a starting point. It’s different for every face. It’s a great way to get inspired but if you can’t wear a color that’s “bright” base the rest of your makeup around it. Use a bright lip instead of an eye. The intensity can always come down a notch. For example, you won’t wear bright orange on your eyes but you can wear a wash of peach from lash to brow. Another example is the Fuchsia pink. It’s really vibrant, so if you do wear that, then you should wear a sheer lip. Balance in makeup is always a good thing. Experiment.
You could also do a muted eye with neutral tones and just add a little bit of yellow as a pop. There are levels of intensity in makeup. Metallic eyeshadow looks good on darker skin tones because it bounces light back right away from a skin tone that generally has more shadows and where it’s more difficult to create contours. I think metallic eye shadows look great on women of color; pair with a softer lip in a sheer lip color. Paler skin tones should also do metallic shades. You can use a lighter shade on the eyes, build up your eye lashes and pair it with a stronger or bold lip color.”
GP: Blue mascara can really add pop to your eyes. Should it only be paired with black eyeliner? What colors would be over powering?
: “With Eye color, you really want to contrast the eye. You don’t want to match it with your eye color. There’s a Video
on my website on this. For blue eyes, brown or reddish brown are great colors. For Brown eyes, Navy or strong cobalt blue are beautiful. Green look good with rust colors like Bronze. Lavender and violets are beautiful on a hazel eye. Most popular contrasts are based on the color wheel, but my recommendations are easier to understand. Other things that determine your look are: Is it day time? Is it night time? Make sure you prepare the skin, and hydrate the skin. If you wear a smokey eye, make sure your skin is flawless. I have lots of makeup tricks in video tutorials on my website and I’m in production for a dozen more.”
GP: How do we find the undertones of our skin?
Sue: “When it comes to finding out skin tones, you’ll either be warm or cool. It runs from light to dark. Cooler shades tend to be pink to reddish undertones. The best thing to do when looking for foundations or powders look at your throat and look at your neck area. Because when you wash your face, you exfoliate. Match to the body. You can cheat and use powders to make your skin tone look warmer. A good example is by warming up the face with a bronzer.
If you need extra coverage or like a polished look then always use a foundation, foundation is what protects your skin from the environment. If you need less coverage then use tinted moisturizer or concealer.
Also it’s a good idea to purchase makeup when you can try it on! Try a little on your jawline closer to your neck and let it sit for a few minutes. All makeup will oxidize (get darker with air). Put a little strip and let it sit. I usually try 2-3 and one will just naturally blend closer to the clients skin tone. Years ago we used skin toning shades like lavender and peach under makeup to warm the tone, but today foundation is produced to do that for you.”
GP: Is lip liner important?
Sue: “It depends. Lip liner does define the shape of a lip and makes lips look fuller. You can experiment with textures. Put lipstick on first with a brush and then use lip pencil to define the shape (it’s less heavy looking) and it looks more polished that way. Sheer lipstick doesn’t last as long unless I fill in the lips using a lip pencil. If I’m going to use a sheer it would do lip pencil first. The fuller the lip can be minimized if you want to.”
GP: How can the lip be minimized?
Sue: “Use a little but of foundation over the area and blend the foundation into the lip. Use lip pencil a step inside the natural lip line. Avoid anything that reflects light (lip gloss).”
“Makeup is fun and makes you look and feel great instantly so have fun,” says Miss Sue Perez. The greatest thing about her is that there are lots of helpful videos
on her website, and she’s really open to questions and comments via her blog, Beauty Phonics